Monday, August 4, 2008

The Eleventh Choice


























We crossed the last portage and arrived at the southern shores of Lac La Croix at 4:30. We had paddled ten miles and portaged 450 rods in 7 1/2 hours. The trip down the Moose River and across Agnes and Nina Moose lakes had gone very smoothly. Brian and Nic went ahead in the Souris River Wilderness 18 and I followed in my Old Town Penobscot 15. We crossed Boulder Bay and Tiger Bay. We passed 7 campsites but found no open sites, one occupied site was my favorite on the lake. Next we headed East and the North along some islands and those sites were taken. We headed Northwest past Warrior Hill. Campsite choices 8,9, & 10 were also taken. We were weary with fatigue and there was no going back because the last sites we saw open were on Agnes Lake. We headed North looking for an open site. There was also a group of 8 following us looking for a campsite and we felt pressure to keep moving. There was one site left on this part of the lake and we headed there. It was our 11th choice, it was beautiful and it was empty. It had a huge flat rock surrounded by water on 3 sides. It was big enough to catch a breeze from any direction. Camp chores were not started right away and when they were done it was at a slow pace. The guys started a fire to grill the steaks and I made salads and potato soup. After dark I braved the mosquitoes and sat on the point for a couple hours in the breeze and fresh air off the lake. The stars were fantastic and the sound of the gentle waves lapping on the rock made the 15 miles we traveled today all worth it.

The next morning began with rain, thunder and lightening at 5am. I started my morning routine at 6. The tarp nearly collapsed in the downpour and I spent a few minutes readjusting it. We had donuts for breakfast and I as the only coffee drinker had a pot of coffee with mine. It was a laid back day of rest. We all caught northerns, the guys got theirs from shore in camp and I was out in the canoe on a nearby point. I also had a bass on the line but he got away because my net wasn't big enough for me to net it. It was a good thrill though. The afternoon was hot so we all swam for a while. The cool water felt great. This was followed by playing cribbage, Nic won but it was a close game. The evening ended with relaxing on the point.

I had a good nights sleep and awoke with hopes of adventure. At 10 am we headed for Warrior Hill. The canoe handled the waves and wind but not without making it difficult for Nic who paddled in the stern. He worked very hard to keep us on track. We climbed the hill and sat at a good place to see south, east and west. We took many pictures of the maze of islands that we had wove our way through Monday while looking for a campsite. We also had lunch and spent some time visiting. 4 others were climbing the hill so we decided it was time to leave. Chloe barked at them for about a minute and then became friends. Next we headed East and then South to the rangers cabin. It was a well crafted example of hand scribed log construction. It also had a log boat house of the same quality. The whole place was a wilderness oasis for rangers. It was a priceless piece of wilderness property. We had lunch at the picnic table out front of the cabin. There were no rangers around although there was evidence someone was staying there. On the way back I paddled stern, with Nic in the bow and Brian riding duff. It was a grind for 2 miles into the wind. When we turned North to go back to camp we were on the lee side of an island and the paddling was twice as easy. We finished off the afternoon swimming, reading, fishing, watching dark clouds with light showers and drinking coffee. Chloe swam and fetched sticks many times. I really like this dog. She's a perfect canoeing buddy.

I had breakfast while watching the sun rise with Chloe. I was slow to pack and the guys were waiting for me. We left camp at 8:15 am. The paddle across Lac La Croix was beautiful. The water was calm and iridescent. I paddled alone for an hour and a half. The guys were just finishing the first portage when I got there. It was 65 rods with a steep hill. The next short portage brought us to Agnes lake. Half way across the lake we stopped and had a refreshing lunch on a shady rock. We finished crossing Agnes and headed South on the Moose River making two portages, a 96 and 70. Between these portages we got stopped by a ranger. He checked our permit and asked a lot of questions. After the last portage the guys went ahead to find a campsite. We used 2-way radios to co-ordinate our search as we did on Lac La Croix. They couldn't find any open campsites and I found one on the west side of Nina Moose Lake. As I headed toward it I noticed another canoe aimed that direction. I turned on the power and we both got there at the same time and one of his people, I realized, were already on the site. But he let us have it. The guys soon returned from the other side of the lake. We made camp but without the pitching the tarp. It had been a hot day so a swim and a quart of water cooled me very well. The evening ended with more sprinkles and thunder.

On our last morning we enjoyed another sunrise breakfast, packed and were on the water before 8. It took a little over 2 hours to paddle and portage the last 3 miles. This trip was a perfect combination of wilderness workout and peaceful relaxation. We paddled a total of 35 miles and 900 rods of portaging. It never rained during the day. Chloe only got away for about 10 minutes before I found her. Brian and Nic were excellent camping friends.

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