We left the Moose River landing at 10 am. It was a cool morning but comfortable. We were only a little warm on the portages. We crossed several portages ranging from 176 rods to 20. As soon as we entered Nina Moose Lake it started to rain and blow. We made our way to a nearby campsite and waited out a hail storm while we ate lunch. It seemed to let up so we headed north again. Soon it was raining, sleeting and blowing. We made it across the lake to what appeared to be an empty campsite. It was a relief to be out of the wind. We were all very cold. After a few minutes we realized that someone was already there. They were weathering the storm in the back of camp in their tent. When the storm let up we dashed for another camp to the east. We popped together Gary and Carol's tent and then the tarp. Next was snacks and coffee and warmer clothes. Gary helped me put together my tent, it went fast. We had fried potatoes and steak for supper. I hung the bear bag and then watched the last light of the sunset. It was cool but the warm supper kept me from getting cold. In the morning I had my personal stuff packed and was ready to cook breakfast by 8 am. We enjoyed bacon and eggs. It was a cold, clear, beautiful morning and we were on the water by 10:30. The day's travel took us across a 96 rod and 70 rod portage. We also traversed 2 beaver dams and a half mile of swamp walking the canoe through 3 inches of water. We had a great lunch on a rock slab at the southern end of Agnes Lake. While there we planned the rest of the trip and decided to stay on Agnes and day trip to Lac La Croix on our layover day. We headed across the lake to a campsite that promised beautiful views of the sunset. When we arrived it was evident that this was a 5 star campsite. It had tall, mature pines with very little underbrush. It was a park like setting with wonderful rocks to sit on. It was also very large and offered lots of privacy. We completed this blissful day by sitting on the rocks and watching the stars appear and the sky grow dark. This campsite was easily the best one I've stayed at. After a breakfast of pancakes, bacon and coffee we headed for Lac La Croix. We went over 76 and 24 rod portages. It was a beautiful day as we covered our miles to Warrior Hill. We spent an hour at the top lunching, photographing, relaxing and talking. The lake below us shimmered in the breeze and sunlight. The random patchwork of islands, peninsulas and bays made for one of the most stunning views in the BWCA. We descended quickly and headed the canoe for the Pictographs. The moose and hand prints reminded us all of the spirits that dwell in the northern wilderness. The paddle back to Agnes took almost 3 hours and was a grind into the wind all the way. I heated water for Gary and Carol to bath in and then took a swim myself. It was a refreshing experience and a great thing to put on clean clothes. We enjoyed chicken, cheese, rice, bean, onion and cabbage wraps for supper. In the morning we started our return trek south. There was a 20mph wind with 1 and 2 foot waves. With 3 paddlers and a 20 foot canoe these waves were easily surmountable. Once on the river again it was back to wading and pulling the canoe through the shallow swamp areas. We also had to unload to pull over the beaver dams. At the second portage we talked to a professional photographer that had 4 cameras along. His camera equipment bags were large. The first two choice campsites were taken on Nina Moose and we had to quarter 1-2 foot waves to arrive at the third choice, which was available. We took a beverage break before starting supper. It was wonderful. Wild rice soup with chicken, corn and dumplings provided an excellent supper. That night we built a fire to make s'mores. Gary tended the fire and Carol made the s'mores. They were delicious. As the fire got low, conversations dwindled and we went to bed. It was a grand day. Gary made the following entry to my journal: Carol and I have always traveled and hiked and camped. Before our girls were born we backpacked in the Sierras and allover central America. After the girls (Alice and Emily) were born we took at least two trips a year around the U.S. Mostly in the southwest. We went to local lakes once a year to canoe and row. Every year we went with Carol's parents to Blue Lake in northern California. As a family we've been around the United States and Africa. We've camped in the deserts of California and Nevada and the high Sierras. Now that the girls are grown Carol and I continue to travel. Several times over the years I've mentioned to Carol that I've always wanted to see the North Woods and especially the Boundary Waters. For my 65th birthday Carol gave me this trip. It has been a wonderful, wonderful birthday. Carol entered the following in my journal: I'm going to write about "how does it make you feel" This trip is everything we could have hoped for and more. We wanted to see the north woods and experience "backpacking by canoe" - and we loved that part of it- but the peaceful, getting away from it feeling was so wonderful and took us so far from home that it will stay on in our memories. We loved the paddling, the beautiful green, gold and red forest, camping by the lake - the incredible view from Warrior Hill and " the big granite rock" - and the ancient feel of the pictographs- we loved your company, Bill, and hearing about life in Minnesota and all your trips. I almost felt like we'd been on a few . Perhaps to sum it up- I never- not for a minute or a second wished I was in another place or on my way home , or doing anything but being in the Boundary Waters, Thank-you. We awoke to dark skies on our last day and chose to head out a little earlier so we could beat the rain. We stopped to climb the big rock that was along the river. The view from the top was a fitting end to what was a wonderful week in the wilderness. We watched for moose in the swamp but saw none. We were able to descend the rock before it started to rain. Our last few portages and beaver dams were crossed gracefully. Life in the woods is good.
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