Lake Insula, August, 2010

Scott, Pam, Jenny and I arrived at a 5 star campsite with a 300 foot beach after 2 days of paddling and portaging from Lake One. We had crossed 6 portages ranging from 10 to 105 rods. We had also paddled about 14 miles. The heat was bearable with an occasional swim or rest stop. Our first night was on a site that was shaded and breezy. It was a great relief to relax and be cool. We also had about 20 minutes of rain around 10pm that made sleeping comfortable. When we finally settled into our base camp on Lake Insula on the second day we all took a swim. With all our travels and preparations it was wonderfull to be reaping the rewards of all our efforts to be at this wonderful camp. The four of us have traveled in the woods for several years and the comfort we took in the wilderness with the sky, blue water, green trees and rocks was a familiar one. Chloe retrieved several sticks from the lake but in her usual fashion she never brought them right back to me. Which was OK, she never has.

Pam made the following entry in my journal: After a long drive with many detours we reached the backroads "path of gravel" back to find the "wilderness getaway lodge of Guide Bill Griffin and his charming wife Ruth. A great meal of grilled turkey, green beans, corn on the cob, salad & brownies with ice cream. What a feast! Some wonderful conversation, bed, and excitement to start the next morning. Still answering phone messages and relaying directions back home until we reached the put-in. Cell phones off, all work thoughts locked behind in the van. Getting on the water was a feeling of total relaxation, like a step into heaven. Something hard to explain but a memorable feeling you never forget. We made it to Griff's favorite spot on Lake Insula. Sandy beach, Story Point, our own private corner of the world. A refreshing swim and a frisbee game that turned into a frisbee water fight, and exploration of the beach. It has been a time we look forward to every year, getting back to the quiet, serene, relaxing comfort of nature. Listening to the water hit the bow of the canoe as we paddled in sequence across the still water to catch a breath of cool air. This has been the hottest trip we've been on, sweating just standing looking at another portage. We talked with many fellow canoeists waiting our turn at portages. Lots of good fishing. As we passed other canoeists Chloe was a hot topic of conversation.

At 8am it was very quiet on the lake, except for Chloe fetching sticks out of the water. This was our first layover day and it looked wonderfull, but we were a little worried about the heat. We all rested from the hectic civilized life we came here to escape. The most significant sound was the micro-waves on the lake as they massaged the shoreline rocks and our souls at the same time. The cool breeze made our skin feel fresh and alive. There was a high thin overcast that kept the sun from being too hot. An occasional canoe or two would glide by silently in the distance. We were alone on our very own planet. This planet is almost soundless with only sky, water, rocks, trees and us. The girls took the Souris River canoe out to do some exploring, while Scott did some reading. There was a loon out on the lake, a brown bird here on shore near me and a Black Bird talking in the trees behind me. My mind wandered pleasantly through memories, images, conversations, and past adventures. Hourly I donned my life jacket and went out into the lake where my feet couldn't touch the bottom. I floated with my head just above the surface of the lake. My perspective on the lake was at a low angle. The lake looked expansive and the islands towered over the water.

Jenny made the following journal entry: I woke this morning to the pitter patter sound of rain drops hitting the rainfly of my tent. As I emerged from my tent to the gray sky, the buzz of mosquitoes entered my ear. Another unpredictable day in the northwoods. We decided that we got about an inch and a half of rain overnight. The rain stopped enough to make buckwheat pancakes with syrup....yum...they were delicious. After breakfast Griff dug out his fishing gear and we decided to try our luck at fishing. Griff at the bow with pole in hand, Mom in the stern, and Chloe and I in the middle. We set out to catch "the big one" We started in a bay behind our campsite and after hearing and seeing a big one jump we caught a decent sized bass. We tried a while longer there with no luck and then stopped back at camp for a stretch break. After a good stretch and a rest we headed out again. This time to another small bay on the other side of camp. We tried for a while and then it started to rain. Just as Griff was putting on his rain coat his pole began to bend. As he reeled it in the clear water revealed a small bass, one big enough to keep. After the second catch of the day Griff decided to fish for northerns. He cast for a while before deciding to troll. With no luck yet we stopped at an unoccupied campsite to clean the other two fish. After that we headed for the islands in front of camp hoping for some luck there. After an hour and an empty hook we headed back to camp feeling slightly dissappointed about not hooking a northern. Once back in camp everone relaxed for a while. Griff fell asleep in his chair as Chloe tried to get him to toss her beloved stick into the warm, clear lake water. Dad found his favorite spot to read on the shaded rock overlooking the lake. I read for a short while and then Mom and I played a few hands of Kings Corner, 21 and Hearts. A family of ducks swam into our beach and had a feeding frenzy on the small minnows that called the warm water their home. They darted here and there and bobbed up and down to catch the small helpless fish. Their mother soon called and off they all went scooting across the ripply water. A nice breeze finally found it's way into camp and was welcomed by all. The sun was hot as it peeked through the clouds and was absorbed into the hot sand. Griff made a delicious supper, as usual. Fresh bass and rice and we had a half melted hershey bar for dessert. The clouds rolled back in after dinner and felt wonderfull. We finally decided to pitch the tarp today after it had rained over night. It has been such a wonderful day and I'm sad that it is ending! Sometimes I wish I could just bottle this place up and open it when I need it again. Life gets so busy and to me this place is my relaxation. The place I unwind and take in all of the things around me. It gives a new perspective on life and the things that are important. This place still puts me at awe. I just can't believe sometimes that it exists. It's so perfect in so many ways. It's hard to explain it's beauty. It's my little slice of heaven and I'm grateful for all of the opportunities I have to return.

After fishing that afternoon I took a short nap and woke up groggy but soon felt wonderful. After supper there was a northern breeze and because of the previous 3 days heat it felt wonderful. The lake was calm except for a little texture. The mosquitoes made their nightly visit but a coating of deet took care of them. A loons mornful cry reached us from a bay to the north. It is days and nights like this that brought me to the Bounday Waters time after time. I am addicted to the BWCA and need my "fix" in 6 day doses about everyother week. This fix requires paddling and portaging for 2 days so that we get far enough in to find the peace and solitude that I need. This weeks group were veterans of 5 years. They know the challenges and hardships of this kind of vacation have awesome rewards in stress free relaxation deep in the wilderness. As the light got lower and lower the lake became a perfect mirror image of the distant shore line and sky above. In the morning I served bacon and bagels for breakfast and had everyone on the water at 9am. The first portage (105 rods) was a lot easier because we were fresh and it was a lot cooler. After the next 3 shorter portages we stopped for lunch. We passed several good campsites on Lake 4 hoping for something on Lake 3. They were all taken and we moved on to Lake Two. Many were taken and the lake was full of people and canoes. In a last ditch effort we paddled to a southern bay and found an empty site. Low and behold it had a jumping rock which we were enjoying soon after camp was made. We had pizzas for supper and enjoyed a great evening with glassy water, eagles, and calling loons. We did try fishing earlier in the evening and if wishes were fishes I would have caught one. At noon the next day we paddled out, sad it was over but looking forward to the comforts of civilization.

July 25-29,2010, Lac La Croix

We paddled away from the portage to Moose River at 12 noon. My crew was 2 father/sons, Tony/Jake and Mike/Nick, and a third boy named Brian. We were packed and outfiited by Border Lakes Outfitting, my employer. We paddled efficiently crossing 2 short portages and finally into Nina Moose Lake. At the North end we took a short break on a sand beach before entering the river again. At the next two portages we had to wait for a slow moving larger group. Once on Lake Agnes we paddled farther North to a bay on the Eastern shore where we found my favorite campsite empty. Supper was Brats, potatoes, and sweet corn. Shortly after hanging the bear bags the branches broke and it fell scrambling our fresh eggs and leaking the mess all over the bottom of the pack. Thus we had bacon and bagels for breakfast the next morning. We were on the water at 9:30am and continued North crossing 24 and 65 rod portages that lead us into Lac La Croix. We wanted an excellent campsite across from Warrior Hill but it was taken. We continued onward and discovered that choice number two was also taken. In another 20 minutes we arrived at choice number three, which was empty, much to my joy. We immediately attacked the lunch pack. Next we put up the tarp and pitched the tents. It was in the 80's so a swim totally refreshed us. We assembled our fishing gear and headed for Fish Stake narrows and soon met Jason and his group paddleing by. We talked for a couple minutes and his group was on their way into the narrows. Once back to fishing I caught a good Smallie and got him in the boat. However, he wiggled out of my hand and back into the lake before I got him on a stringer. We worked the same area several times and found no more luck. Tony's boat was doing real well close to shore and we knew we would have fish for supper. Nick, Brian and I headed back to camp in our 19 foot Wenona Seneca. I took a coffee break and started the rice for supper. Tony found a huge supple of firewood. Mike cleaned the fish. Fish and rice is a fine supper. Mike and Tony helped with the dishes. Mike, Nick and Brian went fishing and Tony, Jake and I visited during the wonderfully cool and beautiful evening we were experiencing on this 5 star campsite in the middle of Lac La Croix. After dark we ate S'mores as the full moon rose over the pictograph's cliff and ruled the night. Everyone sat on the rock watching the lake and moon till mid-night. Oh what a day! We had pancakes for breakfast and then fished from 10 to 1:30. We went back to camp and had lunch and reveled in the fact that we had another fish supper coming our way. I caught 1, Tony caught 3, and Jake caught 2. We took our fishing poles and paddled over to the Pictographs. They were beautiful symbols of a lifestyle that we were only getting a taste. On the way back we fished around islands and bays looking for more Smallies. No luck for my boat but Mikes boat landed several and Brian caught a Northern. Back in camp I started the Chili soup and green beans. Now it had started to rain so I put the griddle on the grate and got the fire going underneath it. The tinder and wood that Tony gathered took off like a house fire. About 1/2 way through frying the fish it quit raining much to our releif. It took 3 griddle fulls to fry all the fish and everyone got lots to eat. After evening chores were done I took a swim and put on clean clothes, it was wonderfull. The boys made s'mores and laughed and talked quietly out of respect for the peace and beauty this gorgeous evening. We felt like we were alone in paradise. The sky was clearing and the setting sun set fire on the clouds to the south and north. In the morning we had bacon and oatmeal for breakfast and were on the water by 9am. We paddled the first 3 1/2 miles in 50 minutes, these guys could move a canoe. There had been a quartering wind from behind which required me to use 1/2 my strokes to keep the boat on track. We took a long lunch on Lake Agnes and then headed upstream on the Moose River again. A week in the woods had everyone working smooth and efficiently as we quickly crossed the two portages on our way to Nina Moose Lake. The northwest wind pushed and twisted us all the way to the middle of Nina Moose where we found a great campsite. We had snacks and then the guys went fishing. I had a cup of coffee and went through the food packs sorting out stuff and setting out supper fixings. The guys returned and I start supper with Italian bread sticks. Next we made pizza with pitas and tortillas. The pizzas were made with mozarilla cheese, pepperoni, garlic, pizza sauce, olives, and onion. It was a great final supper. The evening chores were done and we spent the rest of our time watching the sunset and then the moon rise. It was glorious, except for the hordes of mosquitoes hatched by yesterday's rain and today's heat. Mike, Nick and Brian went fishing again because Nick hadn't landed a fish yet. Nick was successful in getting a 36 inch Northern in the boat. He was very happy. For breakfast on our last morning we had bacon, sweet quesidillas and hot cereal. Nick, Mike and I went fishing for a couple hours and Mike caught a smaller northern. After lunch we packed up and headed South to the Moose River. We paddled a mile up river and stopped at a magnificient rock overlooking the swamp, river and lake in the distance. The view was inspiring and everyone took photo's. We could see another group coming so we scrambled down and paddled away. We crossed the remaining 3 portages like seasoned veterans. We felt a little sad to leave but were looking forward to the creature comforts of civilization. The group was strong and enthusiastic and I hope to travel the wilderness with them again. Jake wrote the following in my journal: Watching the moon rise was almost like the world stopped in time and there was no worries. Everything was completely calm and serene and blew all my previous expectations away. Although the mosquitoes seem like they never go away, fishing in the lake, looking at the Indian pictographs and watching Eagles fly above in the sky makes up for it all. Canoeing in the Boundary Waters is truly an amazing experience and I am extremely grateful to have been a part of it. Hopefully before the end of the trip I'll see a moose or a bear and hopefully from a distance. I think I will definitely return to the Boundary Waters in the future. Nick wrote the following: I've had a lot of fun so far on my trip. My favorite part so far was watching the Eagles eat fish. I haven't been so lucky fishing. I haven't caught one yet, but I've had plenty of bites. Seeing the pictographs was really cool, I love all that kind of stuff, it's really cool. I've never been to a place that has so much wildlife. Being out here on the lake with no sign of human life is pretty cool. The canoeing is a lot of work, but it's fun and it's worth the hard work to see such a beautiful place. I had plenty to eat. The food is really good, especially the fish. The only down part is the mosquitoes and the portages. I have to carry a lot of gear, which hurts my back a lot and my feet have blisters that are cut open and hurt when I walk. I would love to live on the lake anyway. It's an incredible place. I will definitely come back so that I can catch some fish. Brian wrote in my journal: Hmmm..... Well so far our expedition has turned out better than I thought it would, but the mosquitoes are annoying. I would like to see a moose, at a safe distance. The only thing I'm looking forward to is the veiw, the fresh air and the fishing. I'm pretty sure the only reason my dad wanted me to come here is to catch some Northern Pike. I successfully caught two and made Nick mad. He said he would fish for me if I caught anymore. The forecast has fortunately been accurate so far and it said there shouldn't be anymore rain this week. Well, I hope all goes as planned and we have a good week. Tony wrote the following in the journal: I've never seen anything like this place in my life. Coming to Boundary Waters with my son and friends was something I was looking forward to for months. I sought information from people who have been here before and what I had read about, but if I could have talked to Bill prior to coming I would of only needed 1/2 of what I brought. Once we were on the water I was amazed at the beauty of this place. We passed a dozen or so canoes on our way to camp the first day, and Bill told us don't worry we will soon be alone and he was right. Each day was better,the campsites, the food, the fishing and lets not forget the stories and memories. I hope to return one day to do this again, so I can relax like the way I did this time. And Bill, if you are still guiding I would enjoy your company again. Mike wrote the following: Had a great trip, glad we had you as a guide. Cooking was great especially the fish. Fishing was great, that was the biggest smallies I ever caught. Glad Nick finnally caught a fish(36" Northern), that was cool. He was getting a little frustrated. Lac La Croix was the best, that campsite was perfect. Need to remember that one. Hopefully I can come back next year and bring the whole family, Sherry, Nick, Joe, and Sam. Sam loves to fish, he would love it. Thanks for a great trip.

Friday July 16 to Tuesday July 20th, 2010

We hit the water at 4:15 heading North on Sawbill Lake. The 9 of us arrived at a campsite in a bay on the west side of the lake at 6pm. Camp was made and an easy one pot meal was prepared due to the lateness of the hour. The evening went by quickly. In the morning the kids slept in and after a breakfast of eggs and bacon we hit the water at 11am. Our days journey took us to Cherokee Lake where we found a sand beach campsite at about 6pm. We all went for a swim before making camp and starting supper. We grilled hamburgers and a few side dishes. I told a bear story while preparing the meal. Sunday morning found us travelling North and then East to Town Lake. We visited with other canoeists for a few minutes before tackling a long portage into the primitive area of Cam Lake. The portages were extremely difficult due to the boulders we had to constantly step over and around. We entered beautiful Brule Lake and went directly to a large camp on the Southern shore of the West end. We all went swimming as soon as camp was made. It was a beautiful evening and the lake was iridescent long after sunset. Hannah and Camilla got up at 3 the next morning to go fishing and watch the sunrise. I stayed up for a while just to monitor the situation. After about 45 minutes I went back to bed and slept till 6am. I sat in my chair waiting for their return and they did at about 6:40am. They were soon back in their tent sleeping. The reason they got up so early was their watch was off by an hour. I packed up my kit and went to start coffee. Everyone slept in again and it wasn't until after breakfast and a swim that we hit the water at 11am. Our journey to Burnt Lake crossed several portages covering 615 rods total. Once again we arrived in camp at 6pm. Camp was pitched and I went for a swim. After I had changed clothes I walked into the main camp area to discover that Lene had started supper and had everything under control. The spaghetti was delicious and after a quick clean up we all went to the west side of camp to watch the sunset and take photos. As darkness settled in the forest we gathered around the campfire and I read entries from my journal. The next morning, in the rain, we portaged 190 rods back to Sawbill Lake and paddled the East shore to the Landing. It was great to camp and canoe with this group, they were real troopers. We covered 25 miles of paddling and 1567 rods of portaging.

The following is journal passages made by the participants.

Hannah

The simplistic living of paddling, portaging and finding a new home every night stirs up some deep emotions and thoughts of home, family, and life. Being surrounded by lovely, fun people and sharing their spirits makes the air and water even more beautiful. Slowing down the pace with no alarm clock buzzing, phone or email to check makes me realize how complicated we make life. A 3am paddle with Camilla, fail at fishing and then just sit in silence and watch the sunrise and having the sounds of the lake life waking up for a brand new day is something I have never seen or heard before. These simple pleasures happen everyday throughout our lives. Yet, we are too busy to enjoy them. The stunning landscape has "no trace" of man across the landscape. Lets hope it lasts for more to see.

Daniel

This whole experience has just been wonderful. I am glad I had the opportunity to spend these few days with everyone in this group and to discover this beautiful natural area. I believe that I have learned a lot about living in the outdoors, canoeing and just relaxing outside the Twin Cities. I hope that the Boundary Waters Area would remain like this forever and also hope to be able to come here again.

Francisca

Here we are far away from everyone, maybe in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Here, Bill taught me how to paddle and gave me a beautiful flower. (water lily) I will never forget this trip and the people traveling with me. Thank you for everything including the great meals.

Florianne

I find myself writing this while having the most amazing view of Brule Lake in the morning sun. This is the most amazing and beautiful trip I have ever made. Just with the nine dumplings of us paddling and portaging from place to place. I will never forget this amazing trip with Bald Eagles, Loon calls, and you in your chair, pipe in your mouth telling us the bear stories. Thank you very much for guiding on this wonderful trip. I enjoyed it till the very last minute.

Lene

Dear Bill, I have now gone from being your kitchen assistant on the first night to stunning you just now by taking charge of Monday's dinner. It's been a great couple of days and your charismatic presence has been a huge part of that. A campfire will never be the same without a bear tale and a whiff of tobacco. Thank you for being our canoe-companion and keeping us safe and well fed. And good job today with the 600 rods, it sure feels good to relax in this campsite now. Have a great summer.

Emilie

Most of the things I would tell you have already been told, but imagine that I would tell you with my French accent, that makes all the difference. What would have been this trip without you, with out your coffee and especially your cowboy coffee. I'm really happy to have shared all those unique and wonderful moments with you. I will remember this trip for a long time. Thank you so much.

Camilla

Dear Coffee-aholic, (yes- you should seriously consider getting some professional help against that addiction) Your excuse for getting us to write here in your book, was that you hadn't had time to write in your journal. So to help you I'm going to summarise the last days with us. Here's a typical day: 1) Being awaken at 2:30 am because two crazy girls wanted to watch the sunrise. 2) Make coffee, relaxed mode again. 3)Cooking breakfast for your hungry children. 4) Getting your gear down in the green kayak and paddle and paddle and paddle and portage and paddle and portage and mosquitoes and lunch and pipe and paddle and long portage. 5)Find a home for the night. 6) Coffee. 7) Make dinner for your hungry kids. 8) Bear Stories.

Lene thought that the following excerpts from a song would be good now.

All that I have is a river, the river is always my home, Lord take me away for I just cannot stay

Please help me build a small boat, one that will ride on the flow where the river runs deep and the larger fish creep, I'm glad of what keeps me afloat.

Now the land that I knew is a dream and the light on the distance grows thin, So wide is my river the artist has run out of ink, Where the blue of the sea meets the sky and the big yellow sun leads me home.

And each night brings the stars and a song in my heart, it's a tune for the journey mans tale.